Home Dental Care Tips for Cats

February is annually known as Pet Dental Health Month. To maintain your cat's dental health and to reduce the frequency of needed dental procedures, home care is important. While a small percentage of cats have excellent dental health without any care, the majority will develop tartar, gingivitis and periodontal disease without consistent home care.

Your cat's teeth require cleaning and exercise. Cleaning the teeth removes plaque and bacteria to prevent tartar build up and decrease the amount of harmful bacteria that can pass through the gums. Exercising the teeth keeps the tissue that surrounds the tooth healthy. This helps prevent tooth loss and decreases pockets that can form between the tooth and gum which can collect tartar and bacteria. There are multiple methods to provide home care, depending on your cat's personality and tolerance, and your ability to provide treatment.

Tooth brushing: Brushing your cat's teeth is the single best method if cleaning his or her teeth. Most cats can be taught to accept tooth brushing if you gradually get them used to it. However, do not attempt if your cat is aggressive or prone to biting. Use a toothpaste made especially for cats such as C.E.T. which comes in either seafood or poultry flavors. Do not use human toothpaste - it will upset their stomach and the fluoride can be toxic.

Brushing your cat's teeth might seem difficult or even somewhat silly at first. Your cat may not be thrilled with the idea either, but it can and should be done. It may take a few weeks until your cat accepts tooth brushing. Go slowly and be patient. Offer a treat that your cat really enjoys after you work with your cat each day. You only need to brush the outer surfaces of the teeth, but you should try to brush all the teeth daily if possible. Here are the steps you can follow to get your cat to allow you to brush his or her teeth:

1. Get your cat used to the flavor of the toothpaste. Place a small amount on your finger and let your cat lick it off.
2. Get your cat used to having something put into his mouth. Place a small amount of toothpaste on your finger and rub it over your cat's upper canine teeth. Every day, increase the amount of time and surface you cover.
3. Get your cat used to the toothbrush. Place a small amount of toothpaste onto the brush and let your cat lick it off.
4. Start brushing the outer surfaces of the teeth.

Dental Diets: Veterinary diets such as Hill's t/d, Purina DH or Royal Canin DD are proven to improve dental health. The kibble is larger to encourage chewing and exercise the teeth. The structure of the kibble is formulated to scrub the teeth as the cat chews. The Hill's diet is coated in hexametaphosphate which prevents the calcification of plaque. All three diets provide all the nutrients your cat needs so they can be the dry portion of your cat's diet or you can mix them into another dry diet.

Maxiguard OraZn Pet Oral Care: OraZn is a gel that reduces the deposition of plaque, aids in the reduction of gum inflammation, and neutralizes mouth odors. It contains Taurine which combines with the Zinc to kill bacteria and reduce the bacterial products that cause halitosis and make the gums more permeable to bacterial toxins. You apply a pea-sized droplet with your finger or a cotton swab onto the outside gum areas above the upper molars on each side of the mouth. Use daily for best results.

Maxiguard Oral Cleansing Gel: This is similar to OraZn but has Vitamin C added to help repair tissue. It is recommended for severe oral problems and after a dental procedure.

Oravet Sealant: Oravet is a waxy sealant that is applied to the outer surfaces of your cat's teeth at the end of his dental procedure. It significantly reduces plaque and tartar formation by creating an invisible barrier that prevents bacteria from attaching to your cat's teeth both above and below the gumline. You can then apply the home care Oravet to the outer surface of your cat's teeth once weekly to maintain the barrier against bacteria. It can be used along with brushing or dental chews.

Dental Chews: There are a variety of chews available. Most of them will exercise your cat's teeth and may help reduce plaque. C.E.T. chews have an antibacterial system and time-tested Dual-Enzyme System to control plaque and eliminate bacteria buildup. They can be fed as a treat once a day and come in poultry and fish flavors.

Dental Rinses: Dental rinses contain chlorheidine or xylitol to fight bacterial and reduce plaque build up. This will also help freshen your pet's breath. Chlorhexidine rinses must be applied directly into the mouth. They fight bacteria for up to twelve hours but can have a taste that is unacceptable to your cat. C.E.T. AquaDent contains xylitol which kills bacteria. It is easy to use - simply add 2 teaspoons to a quart of our cat's drinking water every day. However, when you first add any medication to your cat's water, you must make sure he will drink it. It is especially important if he has any medical problems that he continue to drink his water. Xylitol has been proven to reduce dental disease in humans, and it is safe for cats, but no research has shown how effective it is for their dental health.

All of the products mentioned above are available at Scottsdale Cat Clinic. If you are looking to purchase any of pet dental care products at the pet store or grocery store, it's best to look for products carrying the VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) seal. In order to display the seal, the product must have good scientific research backing their claims.

For more information about these products or about your cat's dental health, please contact us by visiting our website.

Cat Food Labels Decoded

You know that proper nutrition is an important factor in helping to keep your cat healthy. But what does that mean? How do you know what is good and what is just clever marketing? Here are some facts, tips and labeling definitions that can help you navigate the shelves of cat food options.

First of all, did you know that pet food products are among the most highly regulated items in a typical grocery store? Pet food ingredients, the manufacturing processes and package labeling are all governed both at the state and federal levels. Almost all of the state laws and regulations are based on the work of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), an organization of state officials who regulate animal feed, which includes pet food. AAFCO has established a standardization of ingredient definitions, nutritional requirements, labeling and other guidelines. This has helped to create uniformity between states so you know you are getting the same quality regardless of where you are buying the food, or where it was manufactured.

At the federal level, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) all have regulatory authority over pet food. In addition to specific state requirements, the FDA also has specific requirements for all food products, human and pet. These include ensuring that the products are "pure and wholesome", "free of harmful or deleterious substances", and "truthfully labeled". In addition, canned pet food has to meet the same conditions as human food canning requirements.

To read more about labeling requirements at both the state and federal levels, visit The Pet Food Institute.

So in keeping with the "truthfully labeled" requirement, what do all those different words mean?

Holistic - This sounds as though it would be a great option, doesn't it? However, under the AAFCO labeling requirements, there is no legal definition of the term "holistic". This means that any company can put the word holistic on their cat food labels without having to define just what makes their food holistic.

Natural - This is also a great sounding option, and it actually does have specific AAFCO requirements to be included on a label. However, "natural" simply means the food consists of ingredients that have not been subjected to chemical synthesis. Plus, natural does not mean organic.

Organic - Just as with human foods, in order for a cat food to be allowed to carry the USDA organic seal at least 95 percent of the content by weight must be organic. And organic is defined as a product that is grown with only animal or vegetable fertilizers.

By-Products - Many of us think that by-product is a dirty word. Not the case at all, and in fact, by-products actually can provide a great deal of nutritional benefit for your cat. A by-product is simply the parts of the animal that are not used for human food production, such as fat, internal organs, etc. If you think about how your cat's wild cousins hunt and eat, they don't waste those parts of the animal and focus only on the whole meat. Many wild animals actually start with the so-called by-products, saving the whole meat for last because the internal organs contain essential vitamins and minerals not found in the whole meat. For example, the liver provides vitamin A and iron, and bone marrow and bones provide calcium, fatty acids and antioxidants. Poultry by-product meal, or chicken meal, can actually be quite beneficial for cats as it contains taurine in much higher levels than in whole meats. Taurine is essential for cats' cardiace and ocular (eye) health.

AAFCO does regulate what is considered a by-product fit for inclusion in pet food. They do not include feathers, hair, hide, hooves, manure or stomach content. As an added green benefit, the use of by-products helps to reduce waste since these are products that would otherwise be trashed.

And now for some of the trickier labeling definitions:

Formulated to meeting nutritional levels established by AAFCO: If your pet food has wording similar to this on it, it has not gone through any feeding and/or digestibility trials. While the formulation method is still highly regulated, there is no documentation on how this particular formula will affect your cat. A much better label wording is animal feeding test using AAFCO procedures substantiate that this food provides complete and balanced nutrition.

Ingredients. Just as in human food labels, ingredients in cat food are listed by weight in descending order. For example, a cat food label that begins "chicken, corn meal, poultry by-products...." has a greater weight of whole meat chicken than corn meal. But be careful. Although ordered by weight, there is nothing that indicates how much more chicken than corn meal may be in there. The weight difference could be as little as less than a tenth of a percent or it could be 20 percent more.

"Beef Dinner" "Chicken Platter" "Seafood Entree" "Liver Formula" You pick up a can that's labeled "seafood entree". That means it's going to be full of yummy seafood for you cat, right? Not necessarily. Diets with these examples of labeling are only required to contain 25 percent of the main labeled ingredient.

"with Chicken!" Any label that has this type of wording, whatever it might be with, is only required to contain 3 percent of that ingredient.

And the silliest labeling requirement of all: "Flavor". As long as the "flavor" is "recognized by the pet", a product can be so labeled. No word on how a flavor is "recognized", though...

It is a good habit to read the labels of your cat's food. Just keep in mind that manufacturers will obey the letter of the labeling laws as far as the content of their products. We hope that this blog has helped you to become a little savvier in reading between the lines.

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For more information on all things pet food related, visit these websites:
AAFCO - Association of American Feed Control Officials
AAHA - American Animal Hospital Association
ACVN - American College of Veterinary Nutrition
The FDA Pet Food Site
NRC - National Research Council for nutrient requirements of dogs and cats
Pet Food Institute

Bringing an Outdoor Cat Inside

In an earlier, recent blog, we discussed many of the hazards and dangers for cats in the outdoors. So how can you make sure a cat that's used to living outside can be happy becoming an indoor cat? With patience and persistence, that's how.

Nowadays, it's a sad fact that many of the cats roaming outdoors have actually been turned out or otherwise abandoned by families that can't take care of them any longer. That means that many of them are already at least familiar with being indoors on a regular basis. Some of these cats will be happy to have a family again and will make the transition more easily. But what about those cats that have only ever known the outdoors?

Stray cats brought indoors, or feral cats trapped, neutered and re-homed sometimes have a difficult adjustment period if kept indoors. Even though to our point of view that living indoors is preferable and cushy, to the cat that has never been confined indoors, the experience can be one of terror and suspicion. In addition, many have never seen a litter box, much less know that's where they should do their "business". Some other common behaviors can be door dashing, constantly meowing at doors and windows, scratching at carpets and even the walls, etc.


You can alleviate the stress these cats face by understanding their behavior and redirecting it in a positive direction. Again, patience and understanding is the key when helping these cats make this big adjustment.


Most importantly, before you bring any cat into your house, be sure to have the cat examined by your veterinarian, spayed or neutered if needed, and vaccines updated. It's also important to check for parasites and have the cat dewormed before coming inside. This is especially important if you already have resident cats. In fact, make sure your resident cats are up to date on their vaccines as well.

One of the ways to ease transition is to use a pheromone diffuser like Feliway. The Feliway brand is a synthetic copy of the natural feline facial pheromone. These specific pheromones let a cat know an object is safe and familiar. Using these types of diffusers can help to reduce the stress and marking behavior in cats.

A good way to start this transition is to time it with the outdoor weather. If you live in colder climes, the cat may be more apt to settle inside during the winter. In Arizona and other hotter areas, summer may be the better season to start this transition.

Here are some additional tips to help your outdoor cat transition to being an indoor cat:

• When the cat first comes indoors, keep him in a small room with non-absorbable surfaces (such as a bathroom). Provide several litter boxes in the area. You can even try different types of litter in the different boxes to see if the cat has a preference. If the cat refuses to use the box, you can try using an organic potting soil or clean sand on top to simulate what is outside. There are also several products available that can be added to the litter to draw a cat to the box.
• Provide places to hide. You don't have to spend a lot of money on fancy cat furniture. A cardboard box, or an old, large carrier without a door, with a towel draped over it will be more than enough for the cat. Unless you have provided soft surfaces for the cat outside, many outside cats have never encountered cushions, so experiment with different textures to see what he prefers, including straw, sawdust or pet bed shavings.
• Plant cat appropriate plants and grasses in a small container, such as catnip or catmint. Many pet stores have pre-planted containers to grow the grasses, and some specialty retailers have organic versions. This gives the cats fresh vegetation to eat, which they would do outdoors, and will discourage the cat from going after houseplants.
• Play with your cat. An outdoor cat possesses a higher prey drive than an inside cat. This prey drive has kept him alive. There are many types of interactive cat toys on the market, and you may need to experiment to see which type your cat prefers. Plus, the more you play with your cat, the stronger the bond you will create with him, adding to his sense of security.

If you already have cats in your house, make sure you take the time to properly introduce the new cat into your family. Whether your new cat has lived with other cats or not, your house has a new set of dynamics for him to integrate into.


If your resident cats are not finicky about where they eat, while the new cat is still confined, feed the resident cats near the closed door. This will help them associate something they enjoy with the smells of this new cat.



Once you are certain the new cat is safe with fabrics and other absorbable surfaces, swap bedding between the new cat and the resident cat as another way to get used to each others' scents. You can also switch out toys and scratching posts. These are good ways for the cats to get used to each other without having direct, face-to-face interaction.



If the introduction is not going smoothly, and/or their interactions are too aggressive, separate the cats again and start over. Again, with patience and time, your cats can become a family.



Overall, bringing a cat indoors can be a very rewarding experience for both you and the cat.

Case of the Week: Koli Poki

Koli Poki is an eight-year-old Burmese that was brought into the clinic to have her teeth checked. Her owners were concerned because she did not seem to be eating well. When I examined her, I found that she had moderate tartar build-up over most of the teeth and the gum above her upper left carnassial tooth was very inflamed. The carnassial tooth is the fourth premolar (cats typically do not have the first premolar present) and has one large and two small roots.

I prescribed an antibiotic to start right away and scheduled her for a dental procedure. I knew I would need to extract this tooth but would also probe and radiograph (x-ray) all of her teeth to see if there were any other problems.

Once Koli Poki was anesthetized for her dental procedure, I was able to thoroughly examine her mouth and discovered many problems with her teeth. She was already missing seven teeth, including her upper right carnassial tooth. Two of her premolars had resorptive lesions - erosions of the enamel of the teeth - which are usually progressive and painful. She had gingival recession at multiple spots including the upper left carnassial and there was gingivitis around most of the teeth. I also did radiographs of all her teeth and found a large amount of bone loss around the roots of her incisors, premolars and molars.

I extracted all of the teeth that were mobile, had resorptive lesions, or a large amount of gingival recession and periodontal bone loss. In all, I extracted fourteen of Koli Poki's teeth. I closed the gum tissue with sutures that dissolve, usually within one to three weeks. I then treated all the extraction sites with the Companion Therapy Laser. Unlike our surgical laser that we use to cut tissues, the therapy laser works to reduce inflammation and pain and helps to speed healing. We also gave her an injection of an anti-inflammatory medication, which also helps with pain, and prescribed oral pain medication for a few days.

The following day, Koli Poki's owner reported that she was doing well. She was eating and acting normally. At her progress exam a week later, her owners were very happy with her recovery. They said she was more active and affectionate than she had been for a while. Her gums were healing very well although they were still a little inflamed. She was eating well and did not seem to have any pain.

Most of our patients develop some dental disease over their lifetime. Even though Koli Poki did show some symptoms of a problem, it was subtle and many cats do not show any signs of pain. Although Koli Poki's owners did notice a problem, they had no idea how severe her dental disease was. They are very happy that we were able to relieve her pain.

A thorough dental exam and radiographs under anesthesia are the best way to investigate any possible problems. At every physical exam, we look for any indication of dental disease and can recommend if your cat needs a dental cleaning and a more thorough exam under anesthesia. Tooth lesions can be very painful but the symptoms a cat will show can be very subtle. Many of our clients, like Koli Poki's owners, are not able to see how much the painful teeth are affecting their cat until they see how much better their cat feels after the problems are resolved.

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Dr. Judy Karnia

The Dangerous Outdoors

Have you ever watched a cat stalk its prey through the tall grass, looking so much like its wild, big cat cousins? Seeing this image, it's easy to believe that being outside is the best life for a cat. However, an outdoor cat lives a more stressful life than an indoor cat, and stress leads to a myriad of physical and psychological disorders. Outdoor cats on the street, or even in the country, are faced every day with territorial disputes, threats from other animals, people or cars, and environmental noises that can cause panic. In addition, the physical threats, illnesses and parasites outside can put free-roaming cats in immediate jeopardy. As a result, indoor cats generally live longer and healthier lives than outdoor cats.

It is a myth that cats easily return to a wild existence and are able to care for themselves after having been pets. Although all cats retain the instinct to hunt, they are no longer adapted to life in the wild. Domestication has suppressed or even silenced many of the wild skills necessary for survival. As such, feral cat populations are most commonly found in and around well-populated human areas because even feral cats require human intervention to survive.

PHYSICAL HAZARDS

There are many threats to an outdoor cat, including other cats, dogs, and even predators such as birds of prey and coyotes. The latter become especially hazardous if the outdoor cat is hunting the predator's natural prey such as rabbits. Fights with other cats over territory and food can lead to scratches and bites that can easily become infected, to say nothing of passing infectious diseases. Many dog breeds kept as pets have a high "prey drive", meaning they will see your free-roaming cat as something to attack. Not every cat will be able to get out of the way quickly enough, especially if there is more than one dog.

Sadly, another very real threat to your cat is intolerant neighbors. Not everyone is fond of cats. Avid bird watchers may be angry that your cat is stalking the birds at their feeders. Others may not appreciate muddy paw prints on their cars. Animal care and control agencies have numerous cases of cats that have been deliberately burned, stabbed, kicked and even poisoned by humans (see this recent blog posting from The Phoenix New Times).

Even if your neighbor doesn't have it out for Fluffy, normal parts of human lifestyles can pose tremendous hazards to your cat. Grooming after walking across treated landscaping can lead to poisoning. Another possible danger is fluid spilled from a car, such as oil or antifreeze. These every-day car essentials are poisonous to animals and can cause them to become incredibly ill. Outdoor cats are especially drawn to this hazard as they are naturally curious and tend to explore unfamiliar fluids tongue first. Cats may also scavenge in garbage when something smells too enticing to pass up. Small bones, plastic wrappers or even some medications can be found in neighborhood trash, all of which could threaten a cat's health.

The number one killer and crippler of outdoor cats is cars. Even a quiet residential street has enough traffic to pose the danger. It only takes a moment for even a street-wise cat to lose concentration and dash into oncoming traffic when being chased by a dog, pursuing prey, or distracted by other kitty delights. Even parked cars can pose a risk if it's a cold day and the cat goes inside a warm engine block for shelter. The cat can be injured, if not killed, the next time the engine is started.

DISEASE AND PARASITES

Cats who roam in the great outdoors are at much greater risk of exposure to diseases and parasites, some of which they can pass on to their human owners.

The Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) compromises a cat's immune system. While there is an effective vaccine against FeLV, no vaccine can be 100% effective. Once a cat is infected with FeLV, his or her immune system is compromised, and the cat will have difficulty fighting off any other type of infection and can even develop cancer. The virus is shed in bodily fluids and is primarily spread through biting, although there is a small risk from grooming and sharing dishes. Kittens can be infected by their mother while in the womb or during nursing after birth.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) also affects a cat's immune system and is ultimately fatal. There is no cure for this virus or for FeLV. There is a vaccine for FIV but it is not proven effective and will always cause any tests for the virus to come up as "positive" making it impossible to know if the cat is really infected. FIV leads to chronic infections and can affect organs and bone marrow. The most common transmission of the virus is through bite wounds and the carriers are most commonly un-neutered, free-roaming males.

Rabies is a caused by virus, which can infect warm-blooded mammals, including cats, people, wildlife, and farm animals, and is always fatal. Outdoor cats are at risk of contact with rabid wild animals such as raccoons, skunks, foxes and bats. As noted in a previous blog, in Maricopa County one of the most common carriers of rabies is bats. According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, cats are the domestic animal most commonly found to be rabid. Cats are closely associated with people and rabid cats often become aggressive. These two factors increase the risk of human exposure. Bites are the most common means of transmission. Rabies is lethal if not detected and treated immediately. Rabies attacks the central nervous system, resulting in paralysis and death.

Plague is cause by the bacterium, Yersinia pestis, and is transmitted primarily by wild rodent fleas mainly in the states of NM, AZ, CO and CA. Cats can become infected from flea bites or from eating infected small mammals. In 2011, a barn cat in Oregon tested positive for plague. The most frequent route of transmission to humans is via the bite of an infected flea. People can also contract the illness by direct contact with the secretions of an infected animal or person through scratches or bites, or from inhalation of infective droplets released by coughing or sneezing. In recent years, almost all human cases of the most lethal form of the disease, pneumonic plague, have been linked to domestic cats.

There are additional parasites, including roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, Giardia, toxoplasmosis and bacteria that cats can become exposed to while roaming outside. Most of these are zoonotic, which means they can be transmitted to humans. For more information about zoonotic parasites, visit the Companion Animal Parasite Council website.

So while it may seem that allowing your cat to indulge his or her "wild side" by roaming free outside is the natural thing to do, the reality is that it can be dangerous and stressful for both your cat and your family.

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Coming up in future blogs: how to transition an outdoor cat to an indoor cat; how to enrich an indoor cat's life

Case of the Week: Orange Boy

Orange Boy was a young neighborhood stray cat. He visited many houses, but when he had a bad fight a few months ago, he came calling to the right house. His new owner saw the terrible wound on his face and knew he needed treatment right away.

When Orange Boy was brought into the clinic, he had a large wound on the right side of his face about three inches in diameter. There was a large scab from under which oozed green, puss filled liquid. We sedated him so we could clean the wound and evaluate it better.

The most likely cause of Orange Boy's wound was a ruptured abscess due to a cat bite. Outdoor cats will often fight over territory and can inflict a large amount of damage on each other with teeth and claws. The cat canine tooth, or fang, is long and pointed and will puncture another cat's skin. The wound in the skin is only a few millimeters deep and heals over quickly. However, when the tooth punctures the skin, it injects bacteria deep inside. These bacteria will replicate and cause severe infection. The body of the cat will attempt to fight the bacteria by sending white blood cells to the site leading to pus being formed. This can form a large soft pocket under the skin called an abscess. The abscess usually causes a fever, pain and lethargy in the cat. The skin over the abscess usually will die and slough off, leading to oozing of the pus. In some cats, such as Orange Boy, the amount of skin that dies can be quite large.

We anesthetized Orange and scrubbed his wound. I removed the scab over his wound and trimmed the dead tissue around the edges. I also cleaned the wound with surgical scrub to remove any infected material. The wound had some good pink granulation tissue, which is the healing tissue, extending three inches in diameter across the whole side of his face. There was also firm swelling on the lower part of the wound due to inflammation from the infection. Because the wound extended from the base of his ear almost to his mouth, I was not able to close it surgically. I therefore left the wound to close on its own by what is called "second intention" in which the normal healing process of the skin closes the wound with time. As the body tries to heal, the skin edges on a wound contract and tissue gradually rejuvenates from the edges of the wound inward. Since the wound was so large, though, I thought I might need to do surgery at a later time to close the wound completely.

While Orange Boy was under anesthesia, we took care of some other preventative measures and tests. A blood panel showed that he was negative for the Feline Leukemia Virus and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus. His white blood cell counts and protein levels were increased due to the infection on his face, but his organ function tests were all normal. We also neutered him. Neutered males are much less likely to be territorial and get into fights.

I prescribed antibiotics for Orange Boy along with a medicated spray to keep the wound clean and help healing. When he came in for his progress exam a little more than a week later, the wound had already improved greatly. The wound was half the original size, much more shallow and much of the inflammatory swelling had resolved. I removed some scabbed tissue from the top of the wound and cleaned it thoroughly. After another week and a half, the wound was down to a 1x2cm scab with scar tissue around it.

Now Orange Boy spends a good deal of time indoors in his new home. He is up to date on all of his vaccines and has been treated for possible intestinal parasites.

Cats have a great ability to heal well and often surprise me with how well they handle many injuries or illnesses. However, when they go outdoors there is a great chance that they will be exposed to bites and other types of injuries or be exposed to infectious disease and parasites. If your cat does go outdoors, be sure to protect him or her from disease by keeping vaccines up to date and giving parasite medications (including heartworm prevention). If you notice any wounds or swellings, bring your cat to your veterinarian promptly so that any infection can be treated as quickly as possible. This will reduce your cat's pain and distress and often save money by addressing the problem early.

Dr. Judy Karnia

Cats Can Have Allergies Too

Any allergy sufferer will tell you how uncomfortable those allergies can be. But did you know that your cat can also suffer from allergies?

An allergy is a hypersensitivity to a substance that is otherwise considered harmless. Some of the most common allergens - those things that cause the reactions - include pollens, dust mites, molds, insect bites, fibers, foods and dander. The most common contact with allergens is through physical contact, inhalation (breathing in) or ingestion (eating). This contact causes the body's immune system to overreact and produce antibodies to attack the invading allergens. These can show up as skin and/or eye conditions, respiratory issues, or even gastrointestinal issues.

Allergies are an inherited trait and a lifelong condition because they are the result of an immune system imbalance. The tendency to develop allergies is a genetic trait. When one parent is allergic, there's an increased likelihood that his/her offspring will also be allergic. Allergies are not curable, but they can be managed with immunotherapy treatment, medications that treat symptoms and simple avoidance of the offending allergen.

Cats, just like people, can suffer allergic reactions to a wide variety of allergens. In fact, there are estimates that about 15% of cats suffer from one or more allergies. Research has shown that the immune system imbalance that causes allergies in humans is essentially the same in cats.

There are four known types of allergies in the cat: contact, flea, food, and inhalant. Each of these has some common expressions in cats, and each has some unique features. These allergies might be why your cat has itchy skin, respiratory problems, sneezing, or even vomiting and diarrhea, the latter being possible indications that your cat has a food allergy.

Contact allergies are the least common of the four types of allergies. They result in a local reaction to the skin. Examples of contact allergy include reactions to flea collars or to types of bedding, such as wool. If the cat is allergic to such substances, there will be skin irritation and itching at the points of contact. Removal of the contact irritant solves the problem. However, identifying the allergen can require some detective work.

Flea allergy is common in cats. A normal cat experiences only minor irritation in response to flea bites, often without any itching. The flea allergic cat, on the other hand, has a severe, itch-producing reaction when the flea's saliva is deposited in the skin. Just one bit causes such intense itching that the cat may severely scratch or chew itself, leading to the removal of large amounts of hair. There will often be open sores or scabs on the skin, allowing a secondary bacterial infection to begin. The most commonly involved area is over the rump (just in front of the tail). In addition, the cat may have numerous, small scabs around the head and neck. These scabs are called miliary lesions, a term which was coined because the scabs look like millet seeds.

The most important treatment for flea allergy is to get the cat away from all fleas. Therefore, strict flea control is the backbone of a successful treatment. Unfortunately, this is not always possible in warm and humid climates, where a new population of fleas can hatch out every 14-21 days. However, a topically applied monthly parasite treatment that covers fleas may kill fleas before they have a chance to bite your cat.

Inhalant allergies are the most common type to affect cats. Cats may be allergic to all of the same inhaled allergens that affect us. These include pollens, molds, mildew and the house dust mite. Many of these allergies occur seasonally, while others are with us all the time, such as molds, mildew and house dust mites. When humans inhale these allergies, we manifest the allergy as a respiratory problem, or hay fever. The cat's reaction, however, usually produces severe, generalized itching. In fact, the most common cause of itching in the cat is the inhalant allergy.

Most cats that have an inhalant allergy are allergic to several allergens. If the number is small and they are the seasonal type, itching may last for just a few weeks at a time during one or two periods of the year. If the number of allergens is large or they are present year-round, the cat may itch constantly.

The second most common type of allergy to affect cats is food allergies. Generally cats will develop allergies to food products they have eaten for a long time. The allergy most frequently develops to the protein component of the food; for example, beef, pork, chicken or turkey. A food allergy may produce any of the clinical signs previously discussed, including itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress.

Treating allergies depends on the type of allergy that the cat is suffering. As noted, the contact allergy is the easiest to treat, once determined, as it simply involves removing the offending item. Limiting exposure to fleas by keeping your cat inside and treating with a regular, monthly parasite control will help. Inhalant allergies may need to be treated with steroids to control seasonal outbreaks. Food allergies may require a specialized diet in order to prevent recurrance.

If you are concerned your cat may be suffering from an allergy, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to review and discuss your concerns.